Talk:Tractor/Archives/2016

Lots of problems

I haven't even got halfway through this yet, and I've lost count of the things that bother me. It could really stand to be mostly re-written. But I got to the part about unsynchronized transmissions, and I had to say something. First, ALL transmissions were unsynchronized until not that long ago, relatively speaking, on cars, trucks, and tractors. No one was expected to bring their Model A to a stop before shifting; it wouldn't work. If one was expected to know how to double clutch just to drive a car, then doing so on a tractor would be no great mystery. Second, and more importantly, it's not EVERY TIME you need to shift...it's every time you need to DOWNSHIFT. It is not hard to shift an un-synchronized transmission from 2nd into 3rd, because the internals naturally slow down once you let off the gas. However, when one wants to downshift, they need to SPEED UP the spinning internals to match the speed of the next lowest gear. That is the entire point behind synchros...they automatically match the rotating speeds of the shafts and dog clutches. They aren't necessary for upshifting (although they can help make the shifts faster). If you understand how a transmission works, this is very obvious. Try shifting your modern car without using the clutch; it's far easier to go from 3rd to 4th than from 3rd to 2nd. In order to get it into second, you usually will have to hit the gas, and bring the engine/input shaft RPM's up until the match the speed of the 2nd gear dog clutch. When going from 3rd to 4th, you simply have to let off the gas, and the trans will slow down of its own accord, until the dog clutch and shaft are spinning at the same speed. So, even if one DID have to "stop to shift" a tractor, it would only be, for example, if you tried to take a hill in 4th gear, and found yourself lugging down. In that case, if you didn't want to try to double clutch, you'd bring it to a stop, start out in first again, and then make your way back up to 3rd gear. Otherwise, what are you supposed to do? Start out in 3rd gear on a hill? Stay in 1st gear the entire time? Obviously, you would only have to stop if you wanted to DOWNSHIFT, which is VERY different from saying that you "had to stop every time you wanted to shift". How the hell would you even get into 4th gear to NEED to downshift? Did you just start out in 4th gear, or what?.45Colt 04:35, 12 October 2015 (UTC)

Hello, I read the article and it does need work. That section in not referenced so it would be hard to try to find the source right? I would like to point out a few things from my perspective and history. We moved to a bigger farm in 1971. We had a B-model Popping John (Johnny Popper) and had bought a 1953 Massey Ferguson before the move. It was a big step up, but both had medal seats, and it was strange to sit between the wheels instead of behind the tractor. We also bought a 1946 minneapolis-moline with big rear tires. In 1973 we bought a Massey Ferguson 265. At this point I learned that we could now change gears "on-the-fly". With the other 3 tractors you picked a gear appropriate to the load and that is the one you used. Otr500 (talk) 11:22, 5 January 2016 (UTC)hhh

Errors and improvements

This article has a few errors and many improvements that need to be made so that it can be brought up to date. Unlock so that it can be improved.

Personal experience

Most of what I contributed on tractors comes from personal knowledge and experience working with a variety of tractors on my dad's farm. I've personally operated tractors ranging from an old IH 460 up to a John Deere 8110. I've operated tractors for nearly 20 years.

I also personally knew someone who died when the tractor he was on rolled over and crushed him. It was cases like his which was the reason why ROPS was added to farm tractors. JesseG 04:35, 15 May 2004 (UTC)

I've added a bit about the foot throttle being a feature of modern tractors. Older tractors didn't usually have foot throttles - that's a more recent invention. I'm not sure when it became a standard feature, but every tractor we've accquired over the past 20 years has had a foot throttle. JesseG 21:45, 18 January 2006 (UTC)

Ok Jesster79, I just have a problem with what kind of industry you're familiar with or work in. A foot throttle is fine when you are working in a yard or on an airport hardstand, for example, when you might be often/constantly changing the tractor's operating speed. But consider an agricultural operator on a paddock (field) a mile, or more, in length that is trying to maintain a constant operating speed and output-power for the towed implement to work efficiently or properly. Foot-operated throttles just don't hack it whereas hand ones are set-and-forget. The other situation is where the operator might often be using the feet to operate left and right wheel-brakes individually while needing to change power setting. Not much call for foot throttles in that situation either. 124.148.31.175 (talk) 23:49, 23 June 2012 (UTC)

It is widely regarded that the best tractors in the business are Case and New Holland. — Preceding unsigned comment added by Billybibliotheque (talk • contribs) 23:48, 26 April 2013 (UTC)

hi

hi

Unsourced opinion

Suggest removing this:

'These motorists are responsible for being duly careful around farm tractors and sharing the road with them, but many shirk this responsibility...'

This is opinion. I could equally express the opinion that tractor drivers have a duty of courtesy to other road users, for example they could pull over every few miles to let traffic queues past. Some do, lots don't. But ultimately we're supposed to be dealing in facts, not opinions. — Preceding unsigned comment added by 95.248.78.47 (talk) 22:05, 2 September 2016 (UTC)