Lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

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Lead climbing
at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location
Dates23 June – 4 September 2021
Champions
MenItaly Stefano Ghisolfi
WomenSlovenia Janja Garnbret
← 2020
2022 →

Competition lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held at five locations, from 23 June to 4 September 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six competition-lead climbing events concluding on 17 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of the event in Xiamen, China.[1]

The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Stefano Ghisolfi won the men's seasonal title, Janja Garnbret won the women's seasonal title, and Slovenia won the national team title.[2]

Overview[edit]

Date Location Venue Route-setters* Men Women
June, 23–26 Austria Innsbruck, Austria Kletterzentrum Innsbruck[3]
  • Poland Adam Pustelnik
  • Czech Republic Jan Zbranek
  • Japan Okano Hiroshi
 Austria Jakob Schubert Slovenia Janja Garnbret
July, 1–3 Switzerland Villars, Switzerland Place du Rendez-Vous[4]
  • France Julien Gras
  • Germany Christian Bindhammer
  • Austria Reinhard Fichtinger
 United States Sean Bailey Slovenia Janja Garnbret
July, 12–13 France Chamonix, France Place du Mont Blanc[5]
  • Poland Marcin Wszolek
  • France Vincent De Girolamo
  • Austria Florian Murnig
 United States Sean Bailey Italy Laura Rogora
July, 17–18 France Briançon, France Parc des Sports[6]
  • Austria Martin Hammerer
  • Russia Anna Gallyamova
  • Italy Alberto Gnerro
 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi Czech Republic Eliška Adamovská
September, 3–4 Slovenia Kranj, Slovenia Dvorana Zlato polje[7]
  • France Vincent De Girolamo
  • France Julien Gras
  • Austria Martin Hammerer
 Japan Masahiro Higuchi Slovenia Janja Garnbret
OVERALL WINNERS Italy Stefano Ghisolfi Slovenia Janja Garnbret
NATIONAL TEAM Slovenia Slovenia

* Chief route-setters are in bold.

Overall ranking[edit]

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are five competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[8]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 319 2. 80 11. 31 2. 80 1. 100 12. 28
2 United States Sean Bailey 277 ( — ) 1. 100 1. 100 4. 55 15. 22
3 Japan Masahiro Higuchi 263 4. 55 7. 43 9. 37 12. 28 1. 100
4 Slovenia Luka Potočar 212 7. 43 25. 6 7. 43 8. 40 2. 80
5 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 204 3. 65 12. 28 4. 55 5. 51 26. 5
6 Czech Republic Martin Stráník 192.87 12. 28 32. 0.87 3. 65 3. 65 10. 34
7 Spain Alberto Ginés López 169 5. 51 5. 51 14. 24 7. 43 ( — )
8 Germany Sebastian Halenke 160.0 57. 0 4. 55 15. 22 17. 18 3. 65
9 Slovenia Domen Škofic 135 17. 18 15. 22 25. 6 10. 34 4. 55
10 Germany Alexander Megos 127 6. 47 2. 80 ( — ) ( — ) ( — )

Women[edit]

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:[9]

Rank NAME Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Slovenia Janja Garnbret 300 1. 100 1. 100 ( — ) ( — ) 1. 100
2 United States Natalia Grossman 296 25. 6 3. 65 2. 80 2. 80 3. 65
3 Italy Laura Rogora 278 7. 43 2. 80 1. 100 ( — ) 4. 55
4 Slovenia Vita Lukan 269 6. 47 5. 51 4. 55 3. 65 5. 51
5 Slovenia Lucka Rakovec 185 8. 40 7. 43 23. 8 6. 47 6. 47
6 Bulgaria Aleksandra Totkova 168 18. 16 6. 47 3. 65 8. 40 ( — )
7 Czech Republic Eliška Adamovská 162 12. 28 ( — ) 10. 34 1. 100 ( — )
8 Japan Momoko Abe 146 13. 26 4. 55 11. 31 25. 6 12. 28
9 Japan Natsuki Tanii 128 ( — ) ( — ) 5. 51 9. 37 8. 40
9 Slovenia Lana Skusek 128 16. 20 11. 31 43. 0 7. 43 10. 34

National Teams[edit]

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2021:[10]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Kranj
1 Slovenia Slovenia 1244.0 2. 274.0 2. 229.0 5. 135.0 1. 230.0 1. 376.0
2 Japan 1041.0 1. 279.0 3. 193.0 4. 158.0 5. 134.0 2. 277.0
3  United States 905.95 5. 110.55 1. 269.0 2. 237.0 2. 200.5 5. 88.9
4 Italy Italy 796.8 3. 149.75 6. 132.85 1. 244.5 4. 164.0 4. 105.7
5  France 593.95 8. 80.75 5. 147.2 3. 192.0 7. 87.0 6. 87.0
6 Germany Germany 547.2 10. 57.2 4. 159.0 7. 91.35 6. 95.85 3. 143.8
7 Czech Republic Czech Republic 396.55 7. 96.0 19. 0.9 6. 99.85 3. 165.8 13. 34.0
8 Austria Austria 364.25 4. 117.65 7. 71.75 13. 35.5 9. 77.75 8. 61.6
9 Switzerland Switzerland 340.15 6. 96.3 9. 50.4 8. 86.8 10. 70.95 12. 35.7
10 Russia Russia 262.55 9. 57.75 11. 41.8 12. 40.0 8. 80.0 11. 43.0

Innsbruck, Austria (June, 23–26)[edit]

Men[edit]

99 men competed in the event.[11]

Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi set an early high-point in the final which could only be surpassed by Austria's Jakob Schubert who took first place in front of his home crowd. Switzerland's Sascha Lehmann took third place after pushing Japan's Masahiro Higuchi to fourth place on count-back. Czech Republic's superstar Adam Ondra slipped low down on the final route and placed 8th.[12]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Austria Jakob Schubert 38 1 38+ 3 1.73 39+ 47+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 37 3 35 6 5.1 31+ 47
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 34+ 8 31+ 14 11.62 39+ 38+
4 Japan Masahiro Higuchi 37 3 11 89 18.97 34+ 38+
5 Spain Alberto Ginés López 32 16 34+ 8 12.33 41+ 37+
6 Germany Alexander Megos 37 3 39+ 2 2.83 38+ 37+
7 Slovenia Luka Potočar 32+ 13 23 34 21.82 39+ 27+
8 Czech Republic Adam Ondra 37+ 2 TOP 1 1.41 42+ 17

Women[edit]

75 women competed in the event.[13]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret claimed the only top on the final route, claiming the win. USA's Brooke Raboutou placed second while Japan's Akiyo Noguchi placed third.[12]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP 1 TOP 1 1.41 42+ TOP
2nd place, silver medalist(s) United States Brooke Raboutou 39+ 4 TOP 1 2.83 36.5+ 40
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Japan Akiyo Noguchi 31 11 35+ 4 7.5 32+ 33+
4 Russia Viktoriia Meshkova 31+ 7 33+ 10 10.91 35 22+
5 Japan Miho Nonaka 31 11 33+ 10 13.23 32 22+
6 Slovenia Vita Lukan 41 3 34 7 4.9 35+ 19+
7 Italy Laura Rogora 46+ 2 TOP 1 2.0 42 13+
8 Slovenia Lucka Rakovec 33 5 34 7 6.32 36.5+ 13+

Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3)[edit]

Men[edit]

68 men competed in the event.[14]

USA's Sean Bailey won the gold medal. Germany's Alexander Megos took second while USA's Colin Duffy took third.[15][16]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) United States Sean Bailey TOP 1 32+ 18 9.64 40 38
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Germany Alexander Megos 39+ 8 TOP 1 5.61 37+ 35+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) United States Colin Duffy 38+ 16 TOP 1 7.04 36 31+
4 Germany Sebastian Halenke 39+ 8 32+ 18 18.04 37+ 26.5+
5 Spain Alberto Ginés López 39+ 8 33 15 12.96 40+ 26.5
6 France Paul Jenft 35 21 TOP 1 8.31 36 26
7 Japan Masahiro Higuchi 39+ 8 32+ 18 18.04 37+ 12
8 Japan Zento Murashita 35 21 34 8 14.78 36+ 11+

Women[edit]

53 women competed in the event.[17]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret topped all the routes in the competition, taking the win. Italy's Laura Rogora also topped the final route, but took silver due to count-back. USA's Natalia Grossman took bronze.[15][16]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP 1 TOP 1 1.41 TOP TOP
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Italy Laura Rogora 20+ 17 TOP 1 7.35 45+ TOP
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) United States Natalia Grossman 35+ 5 40+ 4 5.24 34+ 42+
4 Japan Momoko Abe 36+ 3 TOP 1 2.65 35+ 40+
5 Slovenia Vita Lukan 20+ 17 40+ 4 12.19 35+ 40+
6 Bulgaria Aleksandra Totkova 32+ 6 35+ 11 8.46 36+ 33+
7 Slovenia Lucka Rakovec 37 2 40+ 4 3.32 40+ 17+
8 Slovenia Mia Krampl 36+ 3 35 12 6.48 35 17+

Chamonix, France (July, 12–13)[edit]

Men[edit]

73 men competed in the event.[18]

USA's Sean Bailey claimed his second win in the Lead World Cup. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi and Czech Republic's Martin Stráník fell at the same crux in the final round and placed second and third respectively on count-back.[19][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) United States Sean Bailey 37+ 5 40 10 8.31 43 34+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 32+ 26 TOP 1 11.62 46 32
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Czech Republic Martin Stráník 35+ 10 39 17 14.9 43 32
4 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 37 8 TOP 1 6.0 47+ 29
5 Canada Victor Baudrand TOP 1 38 21 5.61 41+ 28+
6 Italy Marcello Bombardi 35+ 10 40+ 9 10.39 41+ 26+
7 Slovenia Luka Potočar 33+ 19 40 10 15.91 45 25+
8 France Paul Jenft 32+ 26 TOP 1 11.62 45+ 25

Women[edit]

62 women competed in the event.[21]

Italy's Laura Rogora topped three out of four routes in the competition, earning her a gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Bulgaria's Aleksandra Totkova placed third.[19][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Italy Laura Rogora 44+ 21 TOP 1 9.81 TOP TOP
2nd place, silver medalist(s) United States Natalia Grossman 50 2 TOP 1 3.24 TOP 41+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Bulgaria Aleksandra Totkova 50 2 48 7 4.58 TOP 38+
4 Slovenia Vita Lukan 49+ 5 41+ 12 8.49 TOP 38+
5 Japan Natsuki Tanii 44+ 21 47 8 14.83 TOP 32+
6 France Julia Chanourdie 49 8 TOP 1 5.77 TOP 29+
7 United States Ashima Shiraishi 47 18 40+ 14 15.87 TOP 29+
8 Russia Dinara Fakhritdinova 49 8 TOP 1 5.77 TOP 28+

Briançon, France (July, 17–18)[edit]

Men[edit]

68 men competed in the event.[22]

Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi fell high on the head-wall and won the gold medal. Russia's Dmitrii Fakirianov and Czech Republic's Martin Stráník placed second and third respectively.[23][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Italy Stefano Ghisolfi 32+ 2 32+ 4 3.0 42+ 42+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Russia Dmitrii Fakirianov 15 52 33+ 2 11.51 40+ 39+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Czech Republic Martin Stráník 29+ 3 29 8 5.66 39+ 37+
4 United States Sean Bailey 29+ 3 27 16 8.0 42+ 36
5 Switzerland Sascha Lehmann 22+ 16 32+ 4 9.25 37+ 35
6 Ukraine Fedir Samoilov 29 6 27+ 13 9.54 37 35
7 Spain Alberto Ginés López 22+ 16 33+ 2 6.89 37 27+
8 Slovenia Luka Potočar 33 1 30+ 7 2.65 37 22

Women[edit]

56 women competed in the event.[24]

Czech Republic's Eliška Adamovská claimed her first gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Slovenia's Vita Lukan placed third.[23][20]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Czech Republic Eliška Adamovská 30 5 27+ 17 9.35 TOP 36
2nd place, silver medalist(s) United States Natalia Grossman 34+ 1 36 1 1.0 TOP 35+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Slovenia Vita Lukan 12 49 35+ 2 13.1 TOP 29
4 United States Ashima Shiraishi 23+ 23 32+ 8 13.98 TOP 27+
5 Japan Ryu Nakagawa 31+ 3 24 37 11.53 36+ 27+
6 Slovenia Lucka Rakovec 33+ 2 35+ 2 2.65 TOP 26+
7 Slovenia Lana Skusek 28+ 7 34+ 6 7.55 38 24+
8 Bulgaria Aleksandra Totkova 27+ 14 28 15 14.73 41 22+

Kranj, Slovenia (September, 3–4)[edit]

Men[edit]

61 men competed in the event.[25]

Japan's Masahiro Higuchi won his first World Cup gold medal. Slovenia's Luka Potočar placed second and Germany's Sebastian Halenke placed second and third respectively on count-back. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi, placing 12th in the competition, was crowned this season overall Lead World Cup champion.[26]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Japan Masahiro Higuchi 29+ 14 37+ 8 12.96 41+ 37
2nd place, silver medalist(s) Slovenia Luka Potočar 18+ 46 TOP 1 10.95 41 31+
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) Germany Sebastian Halenke 29+ 14 38 5 9.8 40+ 31+
4 Slovenia Domen Škofic TOP 1 TOP 1 3.71 29+ 31+
5 Ukraine Fedir Samoilov 25+ 25 37+ 8 16.84 37+ 30+
6 Japan Satone Yoshida 29+ 14 37+ 8 12.96 40+ 16+
7 Slovenia Milan Preskar TOP 1 35 19 10.49 34+ 15+
8 Japan Ao Yurikusa TOP 1 38 5 5.74 33+ 15+

Women[edit]

45 women competed in the event.[27]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, back from the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, claimed the gold medal and by doing so also claimed the overall Lead World Cup title. South Korea's Chaehyun Seo claimed silver while USA's Natalia Grossman claimed bronze.[26]

Rank Name Qualification Semi-Final Final
Route 1 Route 2 Points
Score Rank Score Rank
1st place, gold medalist(s) Slovenia Janja Garnbret TOP 1 43+ 8 5.34 47+ 49+
2nd place, silver medalist(s) South Korea Chaehyun Seo TOP 1 TOP 1 3.0 36 46
3rd place, bronze medalist(s) United States Natalia Grossman 29+ 10 TOP 1 6.0 37+ 41+
4 Italy Laura Rogora TOP 1 TOP 1 3.0 44+ 39
5 Slovenia Vita Lukan 34+ 6 43+ 8 8.15 38+ 39
6 Slovenia Lucka Rakovec 29 15 44 7 10.42 36+ 34+
7 Russia Dinara Fakhritdinova 34+ 6 TOP 1 4.58 35+ 31+
8 Japan Natsuki Tanii 25+ 18 36 28 24.17 34+ 26

References[edit]

  1. ^ "Sport climbing World Cup events in China canceled because of COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 August 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  2. ^ "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
  3. ^ "2021 Innsbruck info sheet".
  4. ^ "2021 Villars info sheet".
  5. ^ "2021 Chamonix info sheet".
  6. ^ "2021 Briançon info sheet".
  7. ^ "2021 Kranj info sheet".
  8. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  9. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  10. ^ "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  11. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,L) - INNSBRUCK (AUT) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  12. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Boulder World Cup Innsbruck 2021 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  13. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,L) - INNSBRUCK (AUT) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  14. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  15. ^ a b "Sean Bailey Wins Gold, Colin Duffy and Natalia Grossman Get Bronze at World Cup—On a Roll". Climbing. 2021-07-03. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  16. ^ a b "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Villars 2021". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  17. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  18. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - CHAMONIX (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  19. ^ a b "Unreal—Another Gold for Sean Bailey, That's Two In a Row". Climbing. 2021-07-13. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  20. ^ a b c d "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cups Chamonix and Briançon 2021 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  21. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - CHAMONIX (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  22. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  23. ^ a b "Briançon Threatens to Crush Team USA Under the Weight of Medals". Climbing. 2021-07-18. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  24. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  25. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - KRANJ (SLO) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
  26. ^ a b "Garnbret, Grossman Battle At Climbing's World Cup Lead Finals In Slovenia. Results and Highlights". Climbing. 2021-09-04. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
  27. ^ "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - KRANJ (SLO) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
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